Hiking Old Rag in All 4 Seasons (plus Robertson Mountain)

It’s arguably the best hike in the state. I’ve only begun to scratch the surface of Virginia bucket list hikes, but this challenging, technical, incredibly fun hike is my favorite. I like it so much that I’ve hiked it four times now - in all four seasons - and have been rewarded with four very different experiences. More on that in a moment (plus tips I’ve picked up along the way.)

Old Rag is probably the most popular spot in Shenandoah National Park. So popular, that due to a pilot program that began in 2022, a day pass is now required to be reserved in advance during the months of March through November. This 9.5-mile loop with 2,595 feet of elevation gain features a strenuous steep ascent that will test your lung capacity, rock scrambles that will test your flexibility and upper arm strength, and breathtaking 360-degree views that will test your fear of heights. 

Even though I have conquered this hike in four different seasons over the span of five years, there is one common theme to my Old Rag adventures - sisters. 

Summer

Old Rag Mountain Trail - 9.8-mile loop

In August of 2018, I hiked it for the first time with my middle sister while she was stateside. It was a drizzly, overcast day, yet we were not prepared for the extremely limited visibility that met us very soon into our ascent. Once we reached the summit, we were literally inside of a cloud. Our 360-degree view was solid white. Nonetheless, it was extremely fun. I was probably in the best shape of my life during that time from long-distance running, and we decided to see how fast we could complete the hike. I didn’t wear a Garmin then and I don’t remember the time, but it was exhilarating to run about four miles of it in the rain (yes, mainly the flat fire road portion). 

After that, we knew we had to do it again. We still hadn’t experienced a single spectacular view that Old Rag was known for!

Spring

Old Rag Mountain Trail - 9.8-mile loop

So, when my sister was stateside once again, we tackled the hike in April of 2021. This time around, the weather was clear and the views were amazing. Bright blue skies hung above the Blue Ridge Mountains, which showcased a gradient of blue-gray-tinted peaks to bright green tree-covered bases. Not a puff of white fog in sight.

Fall

Old Rag Mountain Trail and Corbin Hollow Trail - 12.5-mile loop

8:45 A.M. to 3:00 P.M. (includes a stop for lunch at summit)

A pattern began to emerge that my sister and I quickly embraced. During her next trip to the States, we hiked Old Rag in October of 2022. Now, fall is an amazing time to enjoy this hike. But be prepared for more people like you with a desire to behold the colors of the season in the nice cool weather. It was during this time around that we experienced more of the long lines I had heard that can build up going through the rock scrambles. It was still just as fun though. And those same beautiful views now boasted hues of gold, orange, and red. 

It was also during this trip that we decided to tack on an additional challenge. I had read about nearby, and often overlooked, Robertson Mountain. In fact, one of the peaks in the background of all of our photos atop Old Rag is Robertson Mountain. This peak actually stands slightly taller than Old Rag, with a very similar elevation gain, and there is a trail that connects the two mountains. Now, Robertson Mountain Trail can be hiked on its own as well, offering an 8.2-mile lollipop loop trail from the same parking lot as the Old Rag Trailhead. But when combined with Old Rag, this addition makes the hike a 12.5-mile loop. And it is definitely not for the faint of heart. Or those with knee problems. 

However, on this particular day, we never saw the peak of Robertson Mountain because we got lost. Well, we missed the Robertson Mountain Trailhead and instead ended up on Corbin Hollow Trail. Instead of going up, this trail went down; down in between Robertson Mountain and Corbin Mountain. We quickly realized we were not where we thought we were, but without cell service and without a map we pressed on. The trail was headed in the same direction, so we just prayed we’d eventually end up back at the parking lot. And we did. Just like Robertson Mountain Trail, this trail ends at the Weakley Hollow Fire Road, the same path that you take on the way back from Old Rag. It was still a 12.5-mile venture, just without the views we were expecting. However, the foliage, the parallel-running stream, and the lack of a single other soul made for a peaceful trek. Plus, this mishap ended up being a blessing in disguise because I had tweaked my knee during the rock scrambles on Old Rag and would not have survived the very steep descent of Robertson Mountain. I was already in bad shape by the time we arrived back at the parking lot and after the two-hour drive home, I couldn’t put weight on it. This was two weeks before I ran the Richmond Half Marathon. I should probably also point out that hiking Old Rag may not be the best decision before a race. 

Winter

Old Rag Mountain Trail and Robertson Mountain Trail - 12.5-mile loop

8:40 A.M. to 4:00 P.M. (includes a stop for lunch at Old Rag summit and a stop at Robertson summit)

Just a few weeks ago, I hiked it again. This time with my other sister, the youngest of us three. This hike was technically five days before the official first day of winter, but I am counting it as winter. Because December in Virginia is winter. And because we hiked in snow and ice. No, we were not prepared for that. 

In December, this hike does not require a day pass. Bonus. This cold month doesn’t seem to bring quite the crowds. Double bonus. And winter means the leaves have fallen, providing more visibility. A silver lining to the sad nakedness of the trees. With temperatures starting in the thirties and climbing into the fifties, this was ideal hiking weather. So when we started seeing snow on the ground about a mile into the ascent, we were caught off guard… and excited! When we reached the rock scrambles that had multiple spots of ice-covered rocks, we began to see why the National Park Service recommends bringing crampons during the winter. And when we were met with a winter wonderland covered in several inches of snow while ascending Robertson Mountain, we were in heaven. To be honest, the rocks of Old Rag have become pretty slick, the ice wasn’t really any more dangerous. However, this is something to consider when setting out on an Old Rag hike during these cold months, even the very beginning of winter. The summit conditions can be very different from those at the base. 

After bypassing the trailhead before, we made sure to pay very close attention as we slogged up the Old Rag Fire Road that leads to Robertson Mountain Trail. In case you’re wondering, it’s roughly at about the 2-mile point after turning onto this fire road. Robertson Mountain is a pretty strenuous hike up, but it’s a fairly painful hike down. In adding this route to the Old Rag circuit, the direction of the loop has the descent on the steepest side of the mountain. This may seem like an advantage, but in reality, it can be very difficult and hard on the knees to maneuver downhill for miles on end. 

By the time we arrived back at the car, we were sore, ready to relieve our bladders at the nearby pit toilets, and feeling very proud of ourselves. 

We had summited two mountains in one day. We stood on the top of one mountain and looked at the other mountain, and then stood on top of that other mountain looking back at where we had just been. It’s a pretty surreal feeling. 

All this to say: I highly recommend this hike. But it’s not for everyone and you should be prepared before you go. So here are a few tips.

• Reserve a day pass in advance if planning a trip from April 1 to November 30. Weekends fill up very quickly. You can also purchase your parking pass online before you go and save time.

• Get there early (as in sunrise) during the popular summer months. The parking lots fill up. Follow directions to the ranger station on Nethers Road in Etlan. New parking lots have been added since my very first visit five years ago, which is nice. Even during other times of the year (particularly during shorter daylight times), you should still start this hike as soon as possible.

• Bring garden gloves. Any work gloves with a good palm and finger grip will work. This is a necessity when navigating the rock scrambles. During all four trips, I’ve had at least one person remark on my gloves and take notes for next time. Your hands will thank you. 

• Wear hiking shoes or trail running shoes. During my first Old Rag hike, I wore my road running shoes and didn’t have too much of an issue. But the rocks have been worn down quite a bit in some spots and good tread is needed. I’ve worn both hiking boots and trail runners, and I prefer the range of motion that trail runners provide. My footing, even in the ice and snow, felt very secure in my pair of Salomon Speedcross 6.

• There are several “false summits” before you reach the actual summit. You will think you are there long before you are actually there. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the Old Rag sign. Then take a right off of the trail and find a good spot and enjoy the view.

• Even during the hot summer months, pants/leggings are preferable and can save your legs from abrasive rocks. 

• Bring a small pack. A large backpack will make the rock scrambles difficult, as there are some pretty tight and narrow spots.

• Bring plenty of water, bring a light lunch and snacks, bring a flashlight (in case of an emergency and it gets dark before you make it off the mountain), bring a small first aid kit (bandages were needed on each of my hikes), and bring a good old-fashioned paper map if adding Robertson Mountain or another trail. Old Rag is pretty clearly marked with blue blazes (they looked freshly repainted on my recent trip), plus it’s highly unlikely that there won’t be other hikers to follow. Note that there is zero cell service on this hike. In fact, I lose reception before I even make it to the road where the parking lot is located.

• Bring layers during the cooler months. You never know how windy it will be at the top. You want to be comfortable while you rest, refuel, and soak in the views.

• Don’t bring hiking poles. Unless you have fully collapsable poles that can fit securely in your pack, leave them at home. But if you do have collapsable poles and you decide to take on Robertson Mountain after Old Rag, then bring them along because they will definitely come in handy on that mountain. 

• Dogs are not allowed on Old Rag Circuit. I’ve also never seen any young kids on this hike. Now, there are probably some kids who could handle it, but with the steep drop-offs and difficult maneuvers that require long legs and arms, I wouldn’t risk it. Leashed dogs are permitted on Robertson Mountain Trail. 

• Old Rag is a one-way, clockwise route. It is not recommended to turn around and go back the way you came. For one thing, the traffic won’t allow it. There is, however, an alternative to reaching the summit that bypasses the rock scrambles, if that kind of thing isn’t for you.

• If you are traveling to Old Rag from the Richmond area, I highly recommend making a stop at Yoder’s Country Market in Madison on the way home. It’s about 30 minutes from the parking lot and is a great spot for grabbing some delicious salty or sweet snacks for the drive home. Along those lines, I always like having a bag in the car with extra water and electrolyte drinks, as well as a change of shoes and clothes for the drive home. And I throw in a towel for those hot, sweaty hikes.

If you’re still reading this, I commend you. If I haven’t bored you, or overwhelmed you, I hope I’ve brought you excitement, or perhaps a bit of curiosity, about this beautifully unique spot in Virginia!

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